Transportation
- A tuk tuk would probably be the best option for travelling, an acceptable balance of practicality, authenticity, price and safety.
- Renting a Tuk Tuk: Maybe you can rent one for the time that you are here and then not have to worry about transportation (30 dollars per day). Or you could just pay by trip. But prices may be hard to haggle, it’s been going up lately. (Motodups are also good but slightly less safe - still a lot of foreigners (and my friends) travel by motodup, at least you’ll really be getting a local perspective.) I have to warn you that you’ll be ripped off by them, because you’re white - don’t take it personally because even I get rippped off because of my American accent. But no ride should be above 5 dollars. That’s already too much - but it’s what they’re used to charging now (tourism is going up). By the way it’s usually 4100 Cambodian riel (pronounced “real”) to a dollar, and most places accept both forms of currency (dollars and riel).
Phnom Penh
- “Seeing hands” massage place. I swear by my favorite blind masseuse – he’s really nice and effective. After too much typing, I love going to get my neck and shoulders straightened out. My parents often go for back pains, this will cure it but otherwise… you need to clearly tell them not to massage so hard or you will be very sore!
- Oil massage is worth trying out too. I’ll find out what the address of my favorite place is.
Khmer Rouge Sites
- The ECCC: Khmer Rouge Tribunals
- DC-Cam’s The Khmer Rouge Tribunal (2006)
- S-21
- Killing Fields (a one day trip)
Markets
- I love the Russian Market, Central Market. There are also some interesting Cambodian shopping malls, such as the Sorya Mall.
- For a fun tourist experience that is closer to a local’s perspective, check out: the Russian Market (Psah Tuol Tum Poong). There are a lot of tourists and expatriates, but I used to buy clothes from there all the time, beautiful silver jewelry and silk scarves, DVDs, antiques, food. On the other side of the market is where most of the locals go to buy groceries and clothes and cosmetics and stuff. You should eat at the Russian Market if you’re feeling adventurous! My body is usually ok with their food, but watch the curries and things with many vegetables which are more likely to give you stomach problems, but I have many foreign friends who are courageous and ok with this food.
- Bargaining: Don’t forget to bargain for clothes and jewelry. Russian market also has a tailor area which is not bad – look for the Nous Parlons Français signs – that stall and the stalls around it are the ones I usually go to make blouses, dresses, pants, and blazers at.
- I can also recommend some tailors, you can get some really nice suits and dresses made. Materials and labor are cheaper here and you wouldn’t have to compromise style/quality :)
- The Central Market (Psah Thmei) also has tourist-y areas. It’s huge though, you can explore. Maybe if you’re adventurous try the crickets, they’re delicious. I really like their barbeque squid too!
- Other smaller markets that you might want to go to, if you have time and get a more local perspective would be Bung Kaeng Kong Market (Psah Bung Kaeng Kong) or Orussay Market (Psah Orussay) or Olympic Market.
- Check out street 240 – many cute shops for clothes, jewelry, restaurants. Bliss has a nice spa too. This is an expat/tourist area.
- Clothes: If you’re travelling with girls, you may like to check out Ambre – it’s expensive but the designer is perhaps one of the better known Khmer designers (internationally, she has shops in the Europe and Asia) – it’s almost haute couture. You must check out wanderlust too! I’m the biggest fan of Elizabeth Kiester (http://kanthelpme.com/tagged/kiester)
Going out/having a drink in Phnom Penh:
When going out most expats are really friendly but a lot are also idiots or well-meaning idiots who are only using their passports for the first time.
- Foreign Correspondents’ Club – on the riverside- a must go – a place where all of the journalists and NGO workers hang out
- Metro – on the riverside, nice restaurant/bar, free wifi, again though, it’s representative of the top 20% richer people in Phnom Penh
- Memphis – if you’re into oldies rock and roll – on the riverside, fun and a little shady, as a rock ‘n’ roll joint should be!
- Elephant Lounge at Raffles, le Royale Hotel - go for the happy hour, luxurious, best service, coolest people – you may bump into some celebrities here, my friends have met Jackie Chan here.
- Elsewhere - love this place, it’s mellow, ok food, good drinks, good atmosphere. Going at night is a completely different scene, I’ve been told it’s something out of entourage. Going to the Elsewhere on the first Friday of the month used to be my favorite thing to do. I’m sure it’s still fun but I’m not sure what the vibe I like since I left Phnom Penh in 2009. I hear there may be more tourists and the entertainment that they attract… so not quite the same expat scene as before. You’ll have to go and tell me.
- Around Elsewhere there are a lot of new places which opened out, always great for cheap food and a refreshing beer. Equinox is also interesting, when I went last it was not as crowded, had interesting art work hung up. Always again, be careful of pickpockets and watch what goes into your drinks! I’ve never known anyone to have any trouble but maybe that’s because watching my stuff in a crowded area of people from diverse socioeconomic backgrounds has become second nature to me.
- Heart of Darkness – this is a crazy place with many shady characters, however, on some nights, there is good electronic music and it can be interesting place to go to. I would recommend going with a group of people. I’ve gone before, late at night, with a group of guy friends to dance around the girls to protecting from sketchy people (which come in the form of tourists, locals and expats).
- It’s somehow a special experience though for those travelling to Cambodia. This is the epitome of the backpacker’s scene, perhaps with the exception of “the lake” (a collection of bars near a lake in Phnom Penh).
- You should watch Same Same But Different, a movie featuring the guy from The Reader with Kate Winslet. I’ve been wanting to see it. It’s a modern Romeo & Juliet story, more modern than the one with Leonardo di Caprio I think since it takes into account globalization (German high school graduate meets beautiful Cambodian call girl in Bar).
- Tamarind – I miss this place immensely. It’s a nice place to get together with friends - people go here to smoke hookah - it’s a very cute place.
- Go eat at Friends/Mith Samlanh – former street children who have been given vocational training of their choice. Their food is DELICIOUS, safe, clean… great cause.
- La Volpaia for good Italian food made by orphans given vocational training by NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant.
- Café Java – great breakfast place or afternoon coffee/fruitshake place. Western food, very interesting art exhibitions. Another coffee place you might want to try is Fresco – the chain of choice when I used to live there.
- Meta House – Simple German food but interesting, free movie screenings (Cambodian and foreign indie films) and art gallery. Check it out!
- If you had more time I might suggest for you to check out the restaurants across the bridge — on the outskirts of the city, you’ll get to see some countryside, and depending on the restaurant you go to there are also live comedies with the famous contemporary Cambodian comedians.